Breaking the Pattern- Review

I was excited to see a new sewing book at my local library last week. Without much thought I checked it out. The book is 'Breaking the Pattern' by Saara and Laura Huhta. It retails for $35.

There are 20 projects in the book plus endless ideas on breaking the patterns. All the patterns are included with the book and there is also an option to print the patterns. Also included is a section of pattern alteration, measuring and sizing and fabric selection - the usual information you would expect to find in a sewing book. 

I made project one - The Nummi Bag. this is the only non-clothing pattern and possibly the easiest make in the book.Each project increases in skill level, therefore starting at the beginning is advisable for a beginner.

Making this bag introduces the maker to four different seams- plain, French, flat felled and bias bound seams. Instructions are clear and easy to follow and are accompanied with illustrations.
I did not read any tips on how to deal with thick seams- however there should have been  some mention  in regards to this because by the end of the project the side French seams together with the flat felled seam at the corners  gets very thick -especially when using denim. but then i admit to not having read the book cover to cover.
i added a patch pocket to the interior and a D-ring tab to attach my keys to. i expect to use this bag at the beach or pool in the coming months.

The Betsy Tote

My latest make is the Betsy tote pattern by Alice Caroline and Simply Sewing. For the interfacing I used 987F fusible fleece, my bag is soft and floppy and  the base sags. The instructions recommend a heavy interfacing, I also skipped the internal zippered pocket (will probably regret this latter when I am using the bag).
The purple webbing is from Icraftforless.com.
The fabric was purchased years ago from Joann for a different bag but it was never made. I pieced two piece for the gusset as I did not have enough fabric. My favourtie feature is  the front pocket, the way its patched on the bag front with the raw edges hidden by the straps and base seam gives you two pockets for one.
The pattern instruction are well written making this an easy pattern to sew.

The Library Book Bag

A lot of people would argue that no one visits libraries anymore, but its simply not true. I personally visit my local library weekly and on those visits I need a lightweight bag to carry home all the heavy books I borrow. The library book bag is perfect for that trip to the library. There is a front patch pocket with pintuck details for the library card. The bag base is reinforced with interfacing ( nothing worse than the bottom falling out of your bag) and  the bag is unlined making it very lightweight. Finally the side seams are neatly finished and the straps are secured with a box stitch.

 

Materials

24 inches (60cm) woven decorator fabric main fabric
12 inches (30cm) contrast fabric quilting cotton
Interfacing
thread
2 buttons

 

Instructions

Seam allowance 5/8 inch (1.5cm)

Cut

2  17 ¾ x 13 ½ in bag body from main fabric
2  31 x 4 straps from main fabric
1  10 x 13 ½ in bag base from contrast fabric
1  8 x 6 in pocket from contrast fabric
1  8 x 4 interfacing

 

Cut a 2in square from each the bag body base corners.

With bag body pieces right sides together stitch base . If using directional fabric make sure it’s running the right way.

Press seam open. Press  raw edge of seam allowance under towards  the wrong side by ¼ in. Stitch 1/8 inch from folded edge through seam allowance and bag.

 

Centre and fuse interfacing to bag base.

Fold under ¼ in  to the wrong side both 13 ½ in sides of the bag base.  Find the halfway point of the 10 in side and match this with the seam of the bag. Place it right side upon the right side of the bag

Pin in place. Edge stitch at the folded edge on both sides. Backstitch at the start and finish of each seam. (Optional you can use a twin needle to stitch two rows)

 

trim corners

two rows of stitching

Pocket

Fold under top  edge by ¼in.  Press and fold again ½ in. stitch to hold (optional twin needle)

Measure and mark down from the top 1in, 1 1/2in and 2in. fold on each mark and stitch ¼ in from the fold. (Alternatively you could use a pintuck foot)

Press under the sides and bottom by ½ in. Trim corners to reduce bulk.

Place pocket ½ in up from the bag base and 2 ½ in from the edge, right side up on the right side of the bag. Pin. Edge Stitch from the top right hand side down to the base and up the left hard at the top left hand side pivot and stitch a second row ¼ in  in from the first row.. At each corner with the needle down lift the presser foot and pivot the bag. Pass thread tails to inside of bag tie off and trim.

 

trim seam allowance

Place right sides of bag together and stitch bag sides. Trim seam allowance of the bag body between base seam and bag base. Do not trim bag base seam allowance. Press seam allowance towards the wrong side on each raw edge as before. Stitch 1/8 in from fold edge through seam allowance only.

 

Fold strap  in half lengthwise with  wrong side together. Press, open and fold raw edges towards  the crease. Press and fold again to conceal raw side. Edge stitch lengthwise on both sides.

Turn bag right side out.

 

Place strap 2 ½ in from sides. Pin to right side with raw edges aligned. Tack ¼ in from raw edge to hold in place. Ensure strap is not twisted. Trim ½ in of seam allowance at top to reduce bulk.

Press to wrong side ¼ in top of bag and again 1 inch. Tuck straps into bag. Topstitch lower  fold, start stitching at side seam. Pull straps out of bag and top stitch edge of bag stitching straps down.

 

 

mark and stitch triangle

 

 From right side flatten base corner to create a triangle. Make sure that side seam and base seam are open and lying flat on the inside.  Fold triangle back so point meets the top of the base. Press to crease. Unfold triangle mark crease and stitch across. Fold triangle back towards bag and stitch at top to hold triangle. Backstitch to secure. Sew a button  at each triangle point for decoration. Give the bag a final press with the iron.

decorative button

box stitch for straps

seams finished neatly

 

 

Good for the Environment

The other day at the bookshop I bought a couple of books. The cashier put the books in a small plastic bag and handed it to me. At home I removed the books from the bag and placed the plastic bag in the recycle bin. So wasteful however with a reusable bag with me it is almost unnecessary. That's why I like this tote project. The bag folds into itself and its lightweight enough that I can carry it in my regular handbag all the time.
Recycling is wonderful however its even better for the environment when I don't have anything to recycle after a shopping trip.
Do you agree?
Fabric-Main fabric left over from the Daisy dress, stretch cotton poplin and quilting cotton scraps.
Pattern- Shopping bag from issue 29 of Simply Sewing.
Hardware- Cord stop by Dritz, cord recycled from boys swimmers.

Here is the first shopping bag tote I made.

Fold Away Tote

I have made a new bag, the practical shopping bag project from issue 29 of Simply Sewing.
This bag is an unlined tote that fold away into the corner pocket.
I already had every item on the materials list (bonus) and was able to start and finish the bag in under two hours.
The instructions are easy to follow. I only deviated from them once while making the handles, instead of the bagged out method I used the four fold method (fold strap in half lengthwise, press to crease, open and fold outer edges towards the centre crease, press, fold again along centre crease and topstitch down both lengthwise edges.) I prefer this method.
I rate this a great beginner project.

Work in Progress

Show and Tell

Happy to report that I finished 'The Weekend Tote' last night. I made some minor changes. For instance my exterior pocket is without a flap, also I only included one zip pocket and one patch pocket on the inside.
It's a very large bag.

Show and Tell

 I have been making small pouches (approximately 6 x8 inches) using a  free hand machine embroidery dog design this week.

 

The hardest thing

The bag so far. Still needs a zipper closure and lining.

The hardest thing about creating is getting started. Once I begin there is no stopping me. Take 'The Melbourne Weekender' bag, this project has been sitting around and moved around my work table for probably 9 months, maybe more.
This past week I began it and am happy to say its almost finished, just need to make the zippered closure and lining, but first I have to go buy the right colour zipper.
Happy Sewing!

Work in Progress

Working on the "Melbourne Weekender" from 'The Better Bag Maker'

Pouches and pouches

My recent makes. The patch pocket was added as an excuse to use some pretty trim. Enjoy!

Tri- fold wallet

Style and Swing by Susan Dunlop is my most recent bag making book purchase. The box retails for $26.99. It has 12 projects. There is a project for all skill levels.  I selected to make the Tri-fold Wallet. It is the last project in the book and the skill level for this project is advanced.

The wallet comprises of  many small pieces being organized and using    post it notes to label each piece is crucial with this project. The instructions are supported with illustrations and are broken up into sections. I found this helpful with time management allowing me to complete a section each day.  In general the instructions are straight forward and easy to follow. However I did get very stuck on step two of the pocket section, so I wrote to the author begging for help. Fortunately for me she replied and I was able to continue the project and finish it without any more problems.

What I liked most about this book is that the templates and instructions for each bag project are grouped together. Also the templates are full size. That alone makes this book a keeper for me.

Next I hope to try and make the purse frame crutch. i have yet to use a metal purse frame so i look forward to the challenge.

Tote with side loops

As an alternative to buying a paper gift bag I decided to make this tote from Simply Stylish Bags to present a gift in. I did not strictly follow the instruction for this bag. for instance my bag is slightly smaller than the bag in the book. I added a stiff base using Peltex 71. I also used SF101 interfacing on the bag exterior fabric and for the handles I used the four fold method and not the tube method. Finally I added an interior patch pocket. I hope she likes it as much as the gift inside.

Finished

Done! The Lahti Flight Bag  from 'The Better Bag Maker' finished in time for the trip back home!
There are only two more bags left in the book for me to try making!

Work in Progress

Working on The Lahti Flight Bag

The essential Tote

I remade the Essential Tote bag project from 'The School of Sewing' book as a demonstration for my beginner sewing class but I did a few things differently this time.

I always felt this bag needed a closure. So I borrowed an idea from a bag in 'Simply Stylish Bags'. I made a loop closure with button and used a self cover button from a packet I  purchased a while ago when I had seen them on sale.
For the inside pocket I used the patch pocket from 'The Better Bag Maker' book. Also from this book I borrowed the method for securing the lining inside the bag by stitching the base seam allowance of the bag and lining together. This by far is my favourite method to hold the lining inside the bag.

The Barcelona Satchel

The Barcelona Satchel

This is the 8th bag which I have made from 'The Better Bag Maker'. The book rates this bags skill level at intermediate, however I consider it an advance bag because of the challenge of working with a stiff interfacing on the bag body. I used Peltex 71 for the bags body. The corded handles are also a challenge to stitch. I confess I broke a needle while constructing this bag.

The credit goes to the well written instructions as the reason this bag turned out so well.

The Galapagos Boho Bag

Finished bag number 7 from the 'Better Bag Maker' book yesterday. The skill level is listed as intermediate. My favourite feature of this bag is the large darted patch pocket.

Why Sew

bag in progress

 

At Joann's last week I spent $32.03 before tax buying some of the materials that I need to make my next bag. I still have the rings and slider to purchase. So by the time I have all the materials to make one bag I will have spent approximately $40.
I can buy a bag for less so I asked myself why do I sew, as its certainly not saving me any money. Here are some of the reasons I gave myself.
Its meditative more so than a yoga class. I am calm as I slowly watch the project unfold right in front of me and at the some time I am the creator.
Secondly each time I make something I am building on my current skills and also acquiring new ones.
Thirdly making something myself is more satisfying than simply buying a ready made. Also I can customize the bag to suit my needs and not settle on close enough.
Lastly I need to create whether I am drawing, painting, baking or sewing. Its just who I am.
Why do you sewing?

The Seoul handbag

This is bag number six from 'The Better Bag Maker' that I have made. The skill level listed in the book for this bag is intermediate.
My thoughts on making this bag- the front pockets are fiddly. However the zipper gusset for the bag closure is so easy. For a hand bag it is roomy almost too big for me.
Only one week left before for back to school.