Breaking the Pattern- Review

I was excited to see a new sewing book at my local library last week. Without much thought I checked it out. The book is 'Breaking the Pattern' by Saara and Laura Huhta. It retails for $35.

There are 20 projects in the book plus endless ideas on breaking the patterns. All the patterns are included with the book and there is also an option to print the patterns. Also included is a section of pattern alteration, measuring and sizing and fabric selection - the usual information you would expect to find in a sewing book. 

I made project one - The Nummi Bag. this is the only non-clothing pattern and possibly the easiest make in the book.Each project increases in skill level, therefore starting at the beginning is advisable for a beginner.

Making this bag introduces the maker to four different seams- plain, French, flat felled and bias bound seams. Instructions are clear and easy to follow and are accompanied with illustrations.
I did not read any tips on how to deal with thick seams- however there should have been  some mention  in regards to this because by the end of the project the side French seams together with the flat felled seam at the corners  gets very thick -especially when using denim. but then i admit to not having read the book cover to cover.
i added a patch pocket to the interior and a D-ring tab to attach my keys to. i expect to use this bag at the beach or pool in the coming months.

Sew Serendipity - Skirt

I love this fabric is it 100% cotton chambray. I original made it into a gathered skirt for my daughter  but after a year of it sitting at the bottom of her drawer I realized she was never going to wear it. So I unpicked the skirt thinking I could reuse the fabric for smaller projects.
Inspiration to use it to make a skirt for myself came from looking through Sew Serendipity. All the skirts in this book are made from 6 panels and all use a combination of fabric. Ideal for using up small pieces of fabric.
I chose the tailored skirt, its a knee length A-line skirt with pockets and invisible back zipper. There is a contrast fabric at each seam and on the pocket tops.
I had enough fabric to cut the 6 panels and 2 pockets without worrying about pattern matching. Honestly I think the only people who will notice and mind I have not pattern matched are other sewist, a small number.
The facing and inner pockets I cut from the contrast fabric.
I cut a size medium, the finished skirt sits comfortable below my belly button. I made no alterations to the pattern, the finished waist measures 32 inches. I did not see listed any finished measurement and for me 2 inches wearing ease on a skirt is a lot. Now that I know how it fits next time I will use a wider seam allowance to eliminate some of the ease. For the zipper, instructions are given to install an invisible zipper using a regular zipper foot. Handy if you don't own an invisible zipper foot.
This skirt came together nicely all the pieces aligned exactly. The instructions are well written and easy  to follow as long as you don't mind flipping back and forth to all the different steps sections, the skirt instructions are on page 40, general skirt instructions on page 30 and zipper instructions on page 22.  The nice thing about this book is  all the included pattern pieces are full size. There are 6 variations on the skirt pattern . Also included in the book is a dress and jacket pattern with 6 variations each.  Patterns are graded from  XXS to XXL.
Sew Serendipity by Kay Whitt retails for $27.99. I got my copy from amazon for $9.99.

Book Review

So much information is available online today that buying a reference book can be seen as redundant. But for me a book I return to time and time again for inspiration and knowledge is more satisfying that typing a word in a search engine.
Recently I purchased 'Dressmaking - The indispensable Guide' by Jules Fallon. Retail price $35.00. Its a how- to book covering every technique you need to successful teach yourself to sew with clear step by step photographs. There are 5 chapters that each cover a step in the sewing process.
Chapter 1  Equipment - This chapter covers the equipment needed to sew, needles, scissors , machine, presser feet, notions and threads.
Chapter 2- Prep. Covers fabric, interfacing, understanding a pattern, measuring, and cutting fabric.
Chapter 3 - Constructions. This chapter covers the how-to sew of seams, pockets, zippers, sleeves, collars, yokes and more. Often with more that one way shown. There are 7 different ways of inserting a zipper.
Chapter 4 Stretch.You will find information on stretch fabric and how to sew it without an overlocker in this chapter.
Finally chapter 5 - Finish. This is the chapter I am most excited about because it covers lining a dress. For some time now I have wanted to add a lining to the dresses I make but lack the knowledge, not anymore. This chapter also covers hems and hand sewing with instructions for both right-handed and left - handed people. For left- handed person like myself that's awesome.
I am happy with my new purchase and see myself referring to it a lot.
'Dressmaking - The Indispensable Guide'  is a book that every home sewist should own.

Do you have a favourite sewing book?

My five favourite sewing books

Here are the books I reach for most often when sewing or looking for inspiration.

 

1. Biblio Craft by Jessica Pigza- I love books and this book is all about how books from the past can inspire new creative projects. Its also a visually pleasing book. The sewing projects are ideal for a beginner.
2. The Sewing Machine Accessory Bible by Wendy Gardiner and Lorna Knight- This book covers presser feet. There are four chapters devoted to the different presser feet  available for the home sewist. There is a description of each foot, how it works and what can be achieved using the foot. It covers the familiar (zipper and zigzag foot) and the not so familiar (flower attachment and chenille foot).
3.School of Sewing by Shea Henderson- This is the book I recommend to my beginner students. It covers basic sewing techniques with practical and useful projects to make.
4. The Better Bag Maker by Nicole Mallalieu- I have made 10 out of the 11 projects in this book. The instructions are clear, the techniques many ( how to install a zipper pocket, patch pocket, how to make four fold straps, bagged out straps, adjustable straps, corded strap handles and much more).
5. The Complete Photo Guide to Sewing by Singer- Every sewists needs a good reference books. This is the one I own. It covers the basics (reading a pattern envelope, laying out a pattern, making adjustments, sewing  darts, sleeves, cuffs, collars, pockets, closures and more). It also has a section on home decorating (cushions, curtains and placemats).

Please note I am not affiliated with any of the authors or links.

Thanks.

Book Review- Bag Boutique

Bag Boutique- Making Fabulous purses and totes by Amy Barickman was published 12 years ago, its out of print now but last week I picked up a second hand copy for $1.
The book covers general bag making information on different closures available(a new to me closure mentioned is a hex-open frame), handles and straps , interlining a bag and how to transfer an image to fabric. It also has 18 projects plus variations for each projects.
I made the pocketbook purse. The template instructions stated to enlarge by 111%, I did not, what I did instead was to add a 1/4 in seam allowance to the template. My bag measures 13 x 8 in. A little smaller that the project bag but still a good size. I went with variation 2 without the patches or quilting. My favourite feature of this bag and the reason why I made it is the bias binding handles, so easy to sew.  I found the instructions concise and easy to follow.
What I like about this book is that  each bag is shown in a least two different fabric variations. What I don't like is having to enlarge templates. Some of the bags appear a little dated and fussy, however the bag making  techniques shown make this a good book to add to my collection.
Bag Boutique is great for someone with  some sewing experience and bag making knowledge.

Sew Illustrated (book review)

 

my coasters using Minki's technique

I first saw Minki Kim's work in Haute Handbags. I thought she had used free motion stitching on her bags and wondered how she had achieved such neat, accurate and controlled lines. Upon reading the article I realized that Minki Kim used a difference method, I was very eager to learn it myself. How happy was I to read she was releasing a book, of course I pre-ordered and it arrive last week. First I read the book cover to cover and then set about trying the technique myself using the coasters project from the book.
Other than the small design placement hiccup, the instructions are well written, easy to understand and follow. The photographic steps provide sufficient detail to demonstrate the technique.
The book contains 16 projects, divided into 5 categories.
1 Projects for the table ( the coaster project plus two more)
2 Projects for the crafter
3 Projects for everyday
4 Bags for every occasion
5 Art for your  home
My favourite project (just making it on the cover ) it a precious family portrait. One I would love to make of my own family.
Sew Illustrated by Minki Kim and Kristin Esser, retails for $25.95 (  e-book available) There is  a pullout iron-on transfer of all the designs in the back)

My Coasters
I used two different transfer techniques, for the teapot and cup  (on the left in the photo)I tried the iron-on transfer method, using the pull out page. For the teapot only, I drew the design freehand using a frixion pen.
Both methods are simple to use. At present I do not have a preference.b

Exploring Free Hand Machine Embroidery

Mug Rug

I enjoyed my first attempts at free hand machine embroidery so much that last week I purchased Simply Stitched Gifts by Cynthia Shaffer from my local Barnes and Noble. The book retails for $17.95. It contains 21 projects to make and a chapter on free-motion basics that covers needles, presser feet, fabric, stiffeners and adhesives, thread and also provides a practice free motion stitching guide sheet. Also in the basics chapter Cynthia explains the differences of  free-motion stitching, embroidery and quilting. Free motion stitching is stitching freely with the feed dogs lowered, free motion machine embroidery  means you are creating solid areas of stitching and in free motion quilting there is batting under the top fabric. The main difference between my first attempts at free hand machine embroidery and Cynthia's way of working is that were I used an embroidery hoop to hold the fabric, Cynthia uses quilting gloves to grip the fabric.

From the 21 projects in the book I chose to make the modern mug rug. I followed the 37 steps without a problem and am pleased with my finished rug (pictured above).

If like me you are new to free hand machine embroidery this is a good guide book with many contemporary projects to try. 

The Ottoman

I made the Apple Pie Ottoman from 'Sew What You Love' by T. Whelan. I purchased this book about a month ago, thinking I would make the bag projects but instead I have made the ottoman. The instructions for this project are well written. It's a super easy project to make. Best of all its comfortable to use as a floor cushion.
The book has about 30 projects, divided into four categories- handmade handbags ( 5 projects), sewing for little ones (this is the largest section in the book, it includes projects for soft toys, skirts and blouses for girls aged 1- 14), home style (6 projects including the ottoman, pincushions, storage boxes and a quilt), and personal style (8 projects for skirts, dresses and a tie). The book has something for everyone. Lovely photos, illustrations to explain each step, spiral binding and  full size templates tucked into a back pocket. The projects range from beginner to intermediate level. 'Sew What You Love' retails for $24.99.
Overall I am happy with my purchase and my new ottoman.

Tri- fold wallet

Style and Swing by Susan Dunlop is my most recent bag making book purchase. The box retails for $26.99. It has 12 projects. There is a project for all skill levels.  I selected to make the Tri-fold Wallet. It is the last project in the book and the skill level for this project is advanced.

The wallet comprises of  many small pieces being organized and using    post it notes to label each piece is crucial with this project. The instructions are supported with illustrations and are broken up into sections. I found this helpful with time management allowing me to complete a section each day.  In general the instructions are straight forward and easy to follow. However I did get very stuck on step two of the pocket section, so I wrote to the author begging for help. Fortunately for me she replied and I was able to continue the project and finish it without any more problems.

What I liked most about this book is that the templates and instructions for each bag project are grouped together. Also the templates are full size. That alone makes this book a keeper for me.

Next I hope to try and make the purse frame crutch. i have yet to use a metal purse frame so i look forward to the challenge.