Thursday, May 19, 2016

Machine Stitched -Hems

left to right
Single fold hem-Double Fold hem-Narrow Rolled hem-Blind hem

A look at 4 ways to finish a hem using your sewing machine.
Single Fold Hem- this is a basic hem. Simply pink or zigzag along the raw edge to stop it from fraying. Next turn the edge over once towards the wrong side, press and stitch into place using a straight stitch or decorative stitch and a all purpose foot.
Double Fold Hem- As the name suggest you fold the fabric twice towards the wrong side. The first turn is to hide the raw edge. Press after each turn and stitch in place after the second turn. To achieve a neat finish stitch slowly from the wrong side. Follow the folded edge.
Narrow Rolled Hemming Foot- This foot is designed to stitch a neat and  narrow double hem. The fabric is folded and stitched as it passes  through the coils in the front of the foot. On the underside of the foot is a small channel that allows the rolled hem to pass freely. To use a rolled hemmer foot, attach to machine, place the fabric wrong side up. Pull the hem allowance over the coils and slightly to the left. Stitch slowly, occasionally check that the fabric raw edge is rolling into the hem and is not exposed. Practice on scrap fabric first. The narrow hemmer foot is ideal for lightweight fabric. I have used a quilting cotton in my sample above.
Blind Hem Foot- This foot is used with a blind hem stitch to stitch an almost invisible hem. My machine has a stitch setting for firm fabric, the stitch is a row of straight stitches followed with one zigzag stitch, and a stitch setting for stretch fabric, the stitch is a row of short zigzags followed by a wider zig zag.  My blind hem foot pictured below is adjustable. This foot has a protruding guide that helps stitch in a straight line. To use the blind hem foot, fold raw edge of hem to the wrong side of fabric and press. Fold hem under garment with only a 1/4'' of hem showing on the right. The garment should be resting on the left. Stitch slowly on the exposed 1/4'', the protruding guide should but up against the top fold, make sure the zig zag stitch catches the top fold. When fished unfold fabric, on the right side there will be a row of evenly spaced stab stitches visible. Press to set the stitching.

left to right
All purpose foot-Narrow Rolled Hemmer foot-Blind Hem foot

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