Machine Stitched -Hems

left to right
Single fold hem-Double Fold hem-Narrow Rolled hem-Blind hem

A look at 4 ways to finish a hem using your sewing machine.
Single Fold Hem- this is a basic hem. Simply pink or zigzag along the raw edge to stop it from fraying. Next turn the edge over once towards the wrong side, press and stitch into place using a straight stitch or decorative stitch and a all purpose foot.
Double Fold Hem- As the name suggest you fold the fabric twice towards the wrong side. The first turn is to hide the raw edge. Press after each turn and stitch in place after the second turn. To achieve a neat finish stitch slowly from the wrong side. Follow the folded edge.
Narrow Rolled Hemming Foot- This foot is designed to stitch a neat and  narrow double hem. The fabric is folded and stitched as it passes  through the coils in the front of the foot. On the underside of the foot is a small channel that allows the rolled hem to pass freely. To use a rolled hemmer foot, attach to machine, place the fabric wrong side up. Pull the hem allowance over the coils and slightly to the left. Stitch slowly, occasionally check that the fabric raw edge is rolling into the hem and is not exposed. Practice on scrap fabric first. The narrow hemmer foot is ideal for lightweight fabric. I have used a quilting cotton in my sample above.
Blind Hem Foot- This foot is used with a blind hem stitch to stitch an almost invisible hem. My machine has a stitch setting for firm fabric, the stitch is a row of straight stitches followed with one zigzag stitch, and a stitch setting for stretch fabric, the stitch is a row of short zigzags followed by a wider zig zag.  My blind hem foot pictured below is adjustable. This foot has a protruding guide that helps stitch in a straight line. To use the blind hem foot, fold raw edge of hem to the wrong side of fabric and press. Fold hem under garment with only a 1/4'' of hem showing on the right. The garment should be resting on the left. Stitch slowly on the exposed 1/4'', the protruding guide should but up against the top fold, make sure the zig zag stitch catches the top fold. When fished unfold fabric, on the right side there will be a row of evenly spaced stab stitches visible. Press to set the stitching.

left to right
All purpose foot-Narrow Rolled Hemmer foot-Blind Hem foot
 

Exploring Free Hand Machine Embroidery

Mug Rug

I enjoyed my first attempts at free hand machine embroidery so much that last week I purchased Simply Stitched Gifts by Cynthia Shaffer from my local Barnes and Noble. The book retails for $17.95. It contains 21 projects to make and a chapter on free-motion basics that covers needles, presser feet, fabric, stiffeners and adhesives, thread and also provides a practice free motion stitching guide sheet. Also in the basics chapter Cynthia explains the differences of  free-motion stitching, embroidery and quilting. Free motion stitching is stitching freely with the feed dogs lowered, free motion machine embroidery  means you are creating solid areas of stitching and in free motion quilting there is batting under the top fabric. The main difference between my first attempts at free hand machine embroidery and Cynthia's way of working is that were I used an embroidery hoop to hold the fabric, Cynthia uses quilting gloves to grip the fabric.

From the 21 projects in the book I chose to make the modern mug rug. I followed the 37 steps without a problem and am pleased with my finished rug (pictured above).

If like me you are new to free hand machine embroidery this is a good guide book with many contemporary projects to try. 

The Ottoman

I made the Apple Pie Ottoman from 'Sew What You Love' by T. Whelan. I purchased this book about a month ago, thinking I would make the bag projects but instead I have made the ottoman. The instructions for this project are well written. It's a super easy project to make. Best of all its comfortable to use as a floor cushion.
The book has about 30 projects, divided into four categories- handmade handbags ( 5 projects), sewing for little ones (this is the largest section in the book, it includes projects for soft toys, skirts and blouses for girls aged 1- 14), home style (6 projects including the ottoman, pincushions, storage boxes and a quilt), and personal style (8 projects for skirts, dresses and a tie). The book has something for everyone. Lovely photos, illustrations to explain each step, spiral binding and  full size templates tucked into a back pocket. The projects range from beginner to intermediate level. 'Sew What You Love' retails for $24.99.
Overall I am happy with my purchase and my new ottoman.

Freehand Machine Embroidery

 When you lower the feed dogs on your sewing machine you have the freedom to move the fabric in any direction you wish (left, right, forward and backwards). This is freehand machine embroidery.  I spent a little time today playing with this technique.
You need a darning foot, a embroidery hoop, to hold the fabric taut, thread and of course fabric to start.
To lower the feed dogs refer to your machine manual, on some machines you need to cover the feed dogs instead of lowering. I practiced on scrap fabric using a straight and zigzag stitch until I ran out of bobbin thread. I began with a small 5'' hoop but this was not big enough.On the red sample below I used a 12'' hoop this is a good size for my machine.The fabric is mounted on the hoop the opposite way to normal.
 The stitch length is determined by how fast you move the hoop. If you move the hoop slowly the stitches are short, quickly and the stitches are very long.
It's fun and easy to freehand machine embroider, try it.

Quilted Slippers

Last week I made flannel pyjamas using Butterick pattern B5517, from the  left over fabric I made  the quilted slippers pictured above. I followed the project instructions from Simply Sewing - issue 14. It was quick, easy and fun project to make. I am wearing the slippers as I type this post.
happy sewing

A Pintucked Cushion

I stitched  a new cushion cover today. I teamed up a piece of home furnishing fabric, left over from another project, with a light weight denim. To add interest I pin tucked the denim fabric. Pintucks are slender pleats that sit on the fabrics surface. Most often used in clothing, (my daughter has a lovely summer dress with three rows of pintucks near the hemline), they can also be used in home furnishing projects to create interesting effects.
Tucks will reduce the fabric, therefore you should begin with a larger piece of fabric, once tucked the fabric becomes stretchy.
To Pintuck-I began with a 12 x 20 inch piece of fabric. Using tailors chalk, I marked horizontal lines, 1 inch apart, on the right side of the fabric. Next, fold on the marked line, with wrong sides together. Stitch on the right side of the fabric, no more than 1/4 inch from the folded edge. Repeat with the next line. My finished piece measures 12 x 14in.
Experiment using pintucks to add interest to your next project.

The Raw Edge

The seam allowance is the excess fabric between the stitched line and the raw edge on the wrong side of a project. Unless finished the raw edge will fray during washing. Two quick and easy ways to finish the raw edge on woven fabrics like quilting  cotton are listed below.

Pinked- Using your pinking shears cut along the raw edge of the seam allowance. The hills and valleys stop the fabric from fraying.
If you don't own a pair of pinking shears another method is to use the zigzag stitch.
Zig-Zag- Set your machine to the following stitch zigzag, length 3 and width 4. Stitch close to the raw edge.

In my example I used my overcasting foot. I like using this presser foot because I can line up my fabric with the black tab on the right. This allows me to keep my stitching straight. The zigzag stitch falls right on the raw edge picking up the bottom thread to from an overlock stitch, kind of like wrapping the raw edge with thread.